The Gate of Mir Jumla or Romna Gate

Ramna Gate (Mir Jumla Gate): Mir Jumla (1660-1663), a prominent subahdar of Bengal under Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb, made a number of constructions, the first of which is Mir Jumla's gate, lately known as Ramna gate, on the Mymensingh road near Curzon Hall west of the old High Court Buildings. The gate was probably meant to guard the city from the north from the attacks of ‘Magh’ pirates.

Nimtoli Gate:The last sign of the Nimtoli Palace

Nimtali Palace was built towards the end of the Mughal rule in Dhaka as a residence of the Naib-Nazim (Deputy-Governor) of Dhaka-Niabat (Dhaka Province) in 1765-66. As it was situated in the Nimtali Mahalla (ward) of the city, it was popularly called the Nimtali Kuthi (Nimtali Palace). All but one gateway (Nimtali Deuri) of the palace have now disappeared.

When the capital of the Subah-i-Bangala was shifted from Dhaka to Murshidabad in about 1717, Dhaka was made the seat of a Deputy-Governor of a sub-province comprising approximately the greater part of present Bangladesh. The deputy-governor, usually a close ally of the nawab, resided in one of the many abandoned palaces or forts of Dhaka. In 1763, when the British Army officer Lt. Swinton stormed the city, Nawab jasarat khan, the naib-nazim, who lived in the main fort of Dhaka (the present central jail), was not in Dhaka. He was then a prisoner of Nawab mir qasim in Bihar.

Nawab Mir Qasim learnt, during his hostility with the British, about the role of Jasarat Khan in saving the British at Dhaka by disregarding an order of Nawab sirajuddaula, and he ordered Dewan Muhammad Beg to imprison him. Jasarat Khan fled from Dhaka but was eventually captured and taken to Munghyr, Bihar, where he was made a prisoner. Lt Swinton's attack on Dhaka was actually undertaken to save the friendly deputy-governor. Swinton made his residence in the old fort.

In 1765, lord clive, recalling the past services of Jasarat Khan recommended with the approval of the Calcutta Council to Nawab nazmuddaula to re-appoint Jasarat Khan the Naib-Nazim of Dhaka। Khan thereafter returned to Dhaka. Upon reaching Dhaka, he found that his residence had been taken over by the British and so he stayed in the bara katra, another old palace of the Mughals. Swinton was, however, soon instructed by the Calcutta Council to build a new residence for the naib-nazim. The construction of a new palace at Nimtali was hastily completed by 1766.

Nimtali Palace occupied a considerable area on the northern side of the city between the modern Nimtali Mahalla and the High Court building and consisted of a number of separate buildings। The site was just at the periphery of the then city, mostly surrounded by woodlands. It is not possible to provide a correct or detailed description of these structures as no contemporary narrative or plan of the site has yet been found. It may, however, be assumed, judging from the only extant gateway, the Nimtali Deuri, that it was built after the usual Mughal palace designs with several gateways, inner court, private residences, place of prayer, tanks or water reservoirs, barracks for soldiers and quarters of staff, gardens and the like.

Baraduari at Present(Presently in anwar pasha bhaban)

A narrow water channel running from the north and drawing water from the Kamalapur river in the east formed the water supply system of the palace. There was also a large tank called Nawabi Dighi (still survives and can be located in between the Fazlul Huq Hall and Shahidullah Hall of Dhaka University) and the Nawabi Masjid or mosque, a single domed structure to the south of the present Asiatic Society complex.

As long as the palace remained the residence of the naib-nazim, it played many significant roles in the social and cultural life of Dhaka. It acted as the bastion of the Mughal culture in Dhaka, patronising classical music and dance, painting and other arts and crafts. One colourful event that took place here regularly was the Eid procession brought out in celebration of the Eid-ul Fitr, which used to start from the Nimtali Deuri and after parading different parts of the city, it terminated there.

Bishop Heber who visited the city in 1824 left a graphic description of the palace complex although most of it was then in ruins. He mentions a "really handsome gateway [Nimtali Deuri], with an open gallery, where the 'Nobut', or evening martial music, is performed, a mark of sovereign dignity, to which the Nawab never had a just claim, but in which Government continued to indulge him85" He further mentions, "a very handsome hall, an octagon, supported by gothic arches, with a verandah round it, and with high gothic windows85"

In addition to what has been mentioned by Heber there was one chamber with twelve doors known as 'Baraduari'. It is said that the chamber was earmarked for the audience of the twelve Sardars (leaders) of mahallas of the city, who at the time of the audience used to enter the hall individually through the twelve doors. This audience hall which once housed the Dhaka Museum from about 1914 to 1983 is now a part of the teachers' residential quarters of the Dhaka University, Anwar Pasha Bhavan.

The Nimtali Palace remained the official residence of the naib-nazims till 1843 though they were officially stripped of their power in 1822. However, the fate of the palace like that of its masters was doomed from the very beginning. With the consolidation of power by the East India Company, the naib nazims gradually lost all military and administrative functions as well as authority. Indeed, with the acquisition of the Diwani by the Company in 1765, the naib-nazim's role was reduced to that of a pension holder. The nawab was later given a paltry sum of Rs 6000/- as monthly pension. Shorn of all power, authority, privileges and funds it is no wonder that it was not possible for him to provide the upkeep of the huge palace complex to the extent that it required.

Some of the occupants of the Palace were Nawab Hasmat Jung and Nawab Nusrat Jung, grandsons and successors of Jasarat Khan; the latter a writer of some repute. The notorious incumbent was Nawab Gaziuddin, the last of the naib-nazims who was also known as pagla or mad nawab. He frittered away all the wealth that the family possessed and lived a very profligate life and died in 1843. From then on the ownership of the palace changed several hands. For some time the company kept the complex under their ownership and then started selling off buildings and lands therein through auction. Sadly the new owners gradually demolished almost all the buildings in the complex. The 'Baraduari' changed hands several times and at one point it was purchased by one Maulvi Mainuddin and from him by Ruplal Das, a zamindar and banker of Dhaka. In the 1880s the Brahmas of the New Dispensation Sect established their headquarters in the Nimtali Palace region and named it Bidhan Palli, providing the area a new air of social and religious fervour. Later in the early part of the 20th century when the new capital and the University of Dhaka were being built, the Government acquired the entire Nimtali area.

Thus the Palace of the naib-nazims of Dhaka and the surrounding lands after passing through various vicissitudes and owners, eventually became the property of the Dhaka University. The sole surviving gateway, now lying within the compound of the asiatic society, stands as the lone witness to testify to the existence of the Nimtali Palace.
Courtesy:Banglapedia

Ahsen Manjil:Residence of Dhaka's Nawab

Ahsan Manzil has now been converted into a
museum and a popular tourist attraction of old Dhaka.

Ahsan Manzil situated at Kumartoli of Dhaka on the bank of the Buriganga, was the residential palace and the kachari of the nawabs of dhaka। It has been turned into a museum recently. It was said to be the Rang Mahal of Sheikh Enayetullah, a zamindar of Jamalpur pargana (Barisal) during the time of the Mughals. Having purchased it from his son Matiullah, the french made it their trading centre. Khwaja alimullah bought it from the French in 1830 and converted it into his residence, effecting necessary reconstruction and renovations. Nawab Khwaja Abdul ghani engaged Martin & Company, a European construction and engineering firm, to make a master plan for their residence.

Ahsan Manjil without dome:The photo was taken on 1869

The construction of the palace was begun in 1859 and completed in 1872। Abdul Ghani named it Ahsan Manzil after his son Khwaja ahsanullah. At that time the newly built palace was known as Rang Mahal and the earlier one was called Andar Mahal. On April 7, 1888, a terrible tornado caused severe damage to Ahsan Manzil, particularly the Andar Mahal that was entirely damaged. Nawab Ahsanullah rebuilt the Andar Mahal and also repaired the Rang Mahal using good quality bricks from Raniganj for this purpose. The exquisite dome of the present Rang Mahal was interposed. Ahsan Manzil was badly damaged again by the earthquake of 12 June 1897. However, Nawab Ahsanullah had it repaired again.

Sir Khawja Ahsanullah

Ahsan Manzil is one of the significant architectural monuments of the country। Established on a raised platform of 1 metre, the two-storied palace measures 125.4m by 28.75m. The height of the ground floor is 5 metres and that of the first floor 5.8 metres. There are porticos of the height of the ground floor, both on the northern and southern sides of the palace. An open spacious stairway has come down from the southern portico, extending upto the bank of the river through the front garden. There was once a fountain in the garden in front of the stairs, though it does not exist today. The spacious north and south verandas of both the floors rest on semicircular arches. The verandas and rooms are covered with marble.

To construct the dome of Ahsan Manzil, the square room on the ground floor was given a round shape with brickwork in the corners। The room was then given an octagonal shape near the roof by squinches. This octagonal shape took the form of the drum of the dome. Finally, the kumud kali (buds of lotus) shaped dome was constructed by gradually slanting the eight corners to the peak. The dome is 27.13 m high from the ground.

The Dining Room(1904)

The Hindustani Room(1904)

The Ball Room(1904)

Internally, the palace is divided into two symmetrical halves on either side of the dome. There is a large drawing room in the east wing of the first floor. On its northern side there is a library and a card room, and in the eastern corner there are four square rooms. On the western wing of the first floor there is a spacious Jalsaghar with a Hindustani room on the northern side and four square rooms in the western corner. The vaulted artificial ceilings, made of wood, in the drawing room and the Jalsaghar, look very exquisite. The floors of these two rooms are made of wooden planks. On the ground floor there is a big dinning hall and six square rooms in the eastern part. In the western side, there is a gigantic darbar hall and to its north is a billiard room. The floors of the dining and darbar halls are decorated with white, green and yellow coloured ceramic tiles. The famous strong room, where the valuables of the nawabs used to be stored, was in the middle of the five rooms located in the western half of the ground floor.

There are attractive wooden stairs in the room that is attached to the north of the domed room। The balusters were ornamented with vine leaves made of iron along the railing of the stairs. The wooden ceiling of the room, decorated with geometric designs, is very elegant. A visitor's book bound in gold used to be kept by the stairs during the halcyon days of the nawabs. Distinguished visitors to the palace would note down their observations.

The thickness of the walls of the palace is about 0.78 metres. The doorways are placed within semicircular arches. The inner doors had multi-coloured glasses and the exterior ones were of wood with designs. Wooden beams supported the roof of these rooms.

The height of the two-storeyed inner house is less than the height of the Rang Mahal. Nevertheless, the wide southern verandas on both floors and the parapet on top offer a delicate look that is in harmony with the Rang Mahal. Iron beams have been used in constructing the roof.

Ahsan Manzil, an architectural treasure, is a witness to many historical events of Bangladesh. From the last part of the 19th century to the initial years of Pakistan, the Muslim leadership of East Bengal emerged from this palace. The nawabs of Dhaka used to conduct their court affairs here as chief of the panchayet (village council) everyday. Many anti-Congress meetings were held here under the patronisation of Nawab Ahsanullah, a staunch believer in Muslim identity. Almost all the Viceroys, Governors and Lieutenant Governors of British India who visited Dhaka spent some time at the Ahsan Manzil.

In 1874, Lord northbrook, Governor General of India attended an evening function here in the palace when he came to lay the foundation of a water works installed by Nawab Abdul Ghani. In 1888, Lord dufferin also accepted the hospitality offered at Ahsan Manzil. In 1904 Lord curzon, on a visit to East Bengal, stayed in this palace on 18 and 19 February to win public support for the proposed partition of bengal.

Almost all political activities of Nawab Khwaja sallimullah centred round this palace. Ahsan Manzil was the cradle of the all india muslim league. With the decline of the nawabs of Dhaka, Ahsan Manzil also started to decline. When in 1952 the Dhaka Nawab State was acquired under the East Bengal Estate Acquisition Act, it became impossible for the successors of the nawabs to maintain the palace due to financial constraints. Nawab Khwaja habibullah started living at Paribag Green House soon after the acquisition of the zamindari. The palace was on the verge of collapse in no time as successors rented out rooms without considering its dignity. Over the years illegal occupants turned the place into a filthy slum.

Recognising the historical and architectural importance of the Ahsan Manzil, the government of Bangladesh took the initiative to renovate it. In 1985 Ahsan Manzil and its surroundings were acquired. After the completion of the renovation work in 1992 under the supervision of the Directorate of Public Works and Architecture, it was brought under the control of bangladesh national museum (20 September 1992). A museum has been established there.
Courtesy:Banglapedia

The Famouse Mugal Cannon:Bibi Marium

See the location of Cannon Bibi Marium in Dhaka

The huge cannon (kamaan) at the Ramna Osmani Udyan Dhaka known as Mir Jumla’s "Bibi Mariam" weighing 64814 pounds, was first installed at the entrance of Bara Katra at Swarighat by the Mughul Subedar of Bengal Mir Jumla. At the time of his conquest of Assam, Mir Jumla sent this cannon to Dhaka. Later in 1832 during British rule, the then collector of Dhaka, Mr.Walter transported the cannon from Swarighat to Chawk Bazar. The photo (pic 5) of the cannon taken by Johnston and Hoffman in 1880 shows the market in front the famous Chawkbazar Mosque. In 1917, the then director of National Museum Dhaka made an attempt to shift the cannon to Sadarghat and at a later stage was installed at Sadarghat river bank over masonry platform. The local people, especially the Hindu women used to pay tribute to this cannon by offering milk, flowers and vermilion (sindur) on the belief that fueled the practice of treating the cannon as an icon of power. Afterwards in 1957, Dhaka Improvement Trust chairperson Mr. G A Madani with the aid of Pakistani Military engineers moved the cannon to place it at the road junction of DIT Avenue and Bangabandhu Avenue (Jinnah Avenue) facing the Gulistan cinema. In late ‘80’s when the place became too crowded and traffic increased, the cannon was moved to its present place in Osmani Udyan. Subedar Mir Jumla brought another huge cannon called "Kale Jomjom" to Dhaka that got drowned in the Buriganga river. It is said with a hint of superstition that a roar is often heard coming from the direction of the river for its partner Bibi Mariam.

Bakht Binat Bibi Mosque:The Oldest Mugal Mosque in Dhaka City

History:Binat Bibi Mosque is the first mosque built in the Bengal area, said to have been built in 1454 by Bakht Binat, the daughter of Marhamat, during the rule of Sultan Mahmud Shah I. Binat Bibi's mosque is located in Narinda, Dhaka.

The mosque is a square, single domed mosque measuring 12 feet square internally with a single hemispherical dome atop the square room. Entrances are from east, north and south. Pre-Mughal features included the curved cornices and battlements, corner octagonal turrets, and arches on the south, north and eastern sides. The ornamentation is modest and the building is coated with plaster.

The 600-year old mosque, one of the oldest buildings in the city, is being demolished as part of a renovation plan which includes the building a 70 foot high minaret and the extension of the current building from three stories to seven.